Semi Rimless
Numont Pre-history
Rimless eyeglass frames, were very popular in late 1800's and early 1900's glasses. They provided a light, classy, and inconspicuous look that did not overwhelm the face of the one wearing it. This was particularly important back then as eyeglasses were seen as a medical device, people did not want them to stick out.
Originally rimless glasses had a saddle nose bridge. (Also know as a W nose bridge), The bridge of the eyeglass frames sat directly on the face. When nose pads were invented on vintage frames, starting with 1920's glasses frames, they were incorporated into rimless glasses as well. These soon became very popular, making up a large percentage of 1920s and 1930's eyeglasses.
One of the issues with vintage rimless frames was their fragility. They did not have the full wire rim around the lenses to support them, leaving the frames very fragile. Add to this the fact that lenses back then were made of glass and could break if they fell on the floor. One small break on rimless eyeglasses rendered the entire frame useless, since they would separate from the temples.
American Optical Numont: 2 Screw Semi Rimless
In 1940 a new style off vintage rimless eyeglasses was invented. Rimless glasses with a wire across the front on top of the lenses by the brow. Basically semi rimless vintage glasses, or half rim glasses. The lenses attached to the frames with a screw by the bridge, 2 screws total, one on each side of the bridge. American Optical was the first to come out with this style, soon to be followed by all the other brands. They called them "Numont" Glasses, made up of the words Nu and Mount, a new way of mounting frames. The temples were generally gold wire rim metal as before. These frames took off like wildfire and did more to popularize rimless vintage glasses than nose pads did. The now famous Marty Supreme Glasses are of this style.
American Optical Rimway: 4 Screw Semi Rimless
With semi rimless frames becoming a huge success American Optical was looking for ways to improve the Numont ful-vue glasses. One of the issues with Numont semi rimless frames was that the lenses connected only on one side of the frames while the other side hung in without screws, leaving the possibility for the lenses to tilt sideways if bent too hard. To solve this they came up with the American Optical Rimway glasses, which was basically the same construction as Numont frames but with another set of screws attaching the lenses to the frames where the temples meet the front, thus solidifying the frames hold of the lenses and strengthening the construction of the frames, rendering them sturdier that before. American Optical Rimway was also huge success.
Another Iteration of these was called Rimway Crossley and had some slight variations.
AO Everjax Numont
Another style of Numont glasses from AO was called Everjax. The Everjax was similar to the rimway in that it had 4 screws on top but differed in that the top bar was relatively straight, somewhat like the later Aviator style.
The advantages of Numont Glasses.
Numont semi rimless frames had the advantage of rimless vintage glasses, their inconspicuous look, while at the same time the strength and durability so that the frames and lenses stay aligned.
Some other innovations added to protect Numont frames was Tri-Flex leaf springs near the nose bridge so that the frames should be held tight and not wobble, yet have some flexibility so that the glass lenses don't easily break if treated roughly.
Numont from other vintage eyeglass companies
The Numont style was made by many other vintage frames manufactureres as well. Shuron called this model Shurset, There was Shuron Durex, Artcraft archway, Artcraft Art-Bilt, Bausch & Lomb Numont, B&L Balgrip, C.O.C. Numont. etc. as almost every manufacturer at the time wanted a piece of the market share of these retro glasses.
Numont Eyeglasses Material
Numont frames were generally 1/10 12k gold filled, with the nose bridge often being 10k solid gold. The overwhelming majority of numont glasses were gold tone, though there were some silver colored numont glasses made as well. The nose bridge of 1940's and early 1950's Numont semi rimless frames was genuine Mother Of Pearl, though that was later changed to clear plastic.
Numont & Rimway Sizes
Numont and rimway frames had another innovative feature: For the first time in the history of antique glasses, the frame size was marked on the frames. In this case it was the lens wdith in millimeters etched under the brow strap on top of the left lens. The size generally ranged between 42 and 48, with 44 and 46 being the most popular sizes
Numont Cat eye Glasses
During the 1950's when cat eye glasses started becoming popular, they started making Numont glasses in the cat eye shape. For the most part the mounting was alomst the same with the main difference being in the lens size.
